Warping can be caused by a few different variables but is fairly easy to recognise and resolve. Read below more information on warping and how to fix it.
Signs of warping:
Usually it starts in the corners and can progress if the print isn’t stopped. The print will start to lift and appear to peel away from the bed.
Explanation:
Your prints are sticking too much and are hard to remove. You already tried [nozzle too close] or can’t adjust your nozzle to bed distance. Yet you’reWarping occurs when the physical forces that come into play as a material is cooling down exceeds the adhesion strength of the printed object holding it onto your build plate. Warping is increased, the higher the temperature difference is within the printed object, and/or the higher the difference is between printed temperature and room temperature.
How to fix:
Balance the printing and room/chamber temperature. Print a little cooler depending on the initial printing temperature. If you’re starting at the lowest point in the suggested temperature range, you might want to increase the room temperature instead. The difference between printing temp and room temp shouldn’t be too great or you’ll experiencing warping.
To print cooler – start at your current nozzle temperature and work your nozzle temperature down in 5°C increments.
To increase chamber or ambient (room) air temperature – increase the room or chamber temperature in 5°C increments to reduce the difference in temperature and therefor the tendency to warp. See below for more information on heated enclosures.
Print thinner layers. For example starting at a typical 0.2mm layer height, try 0.15mm or even 0.1mm layer height. This will reduce stress on your part during printing.
Make sure you’re not setting your bed temperature close to the glass transition temperature of your filament (stay 10°C below). You can locate rigid.ink glass transition temperature in the downloadable datasheet for your material on the product page settings tab.
Freezing the print and the print bed hardens everything which makes it If you need more info on warping, causes and fixes, you can view our article on preventing warping here.
Printer specific tips:
Printer specific tips:
The CR-10(S) suffers quite badly from ‘bowling’ – This is where the centre of the glass plate is unsupported to either the metal backplate is bowed downwards or the glass itself is not completely flat. Other versions are doming, twisting, and patches.
You can fix bowling and twisting by adding ‘shims’ to support the low areas. We use the white version of masking/draughtsman tape for this as it is thinner (and we think it looks neater than the blue).
Doming that is caused by a backplate that is warped upwards in the centre can also be fixed this way by adding tape as necessary around the edges and corners.
Doming caused by warped glass might be fixed simply by inverting the glass plate and using the bowled fixing method.
It is much harder if the glass plate is actually thicker in the middle as you will be unlikely to be able to completely remove the problem. Just find the flattest side, put this on top, and adjust as best you can.